Paphiopedilum Culture
Light: Because of their preferred habitat of forest floors, paphs are definitely shade plants. This enables them to be one of the more satisfactory subjects for home culture. A shaded east or west window will suit them fine year round. In the greenhouse they will like to be shaded well all year. No shadow should be cast by your hand when placed over them. Beware, however, of shading too heavily, as soft growth that is very susceptible to disease may be produced and flowering will be inhibited.
Temperature: The optimum temperature range for best growth and flowering is 60-80 degrees Fahrenheit however, plants will stand down into the fifties and up as high as the hundreds with little or no damage if the humidity and watering are adjusted accordingly. A good rule to follow is raise the humidity with the temperature and lower the humidity and watering with lower temperatures. Watering and Humidity: Paphs like to be kept evenly moist at all times. During warmer months this can mean watering every 3-4 days and in cooler months every 7 days or so. The biggest problem that can arise from under watering is root loss owing to salt buildup in the mix. Sufficient water will guarantee that the soil solution never reaches a concentration that will lead to root damage. As with all other container plants, always water thoroughly so that water runs copiously out of the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot. Never allow your plants to stand in water, as this promotes fungus and rot problems. |
Phalaenopsis Culture
Light: In the home, phalaenopsis like an east or west window best, but a lightly shaded southern exposure may also be utilized. They will not receive enough light to grow and bloom satisfactorily in a north window. Filtered light is best, as direct sun can quickly burn the soft foliage. In the greenhouse, 1000-1500 ft. candles is recommended. Extremes in the appearance of the foliage, (Too yellow and hard or too dark green and soft) are easily noticed clues when determining the best location for your plant. The foliage should properly be a medium green and medium hard.
Temperature: Phalaenopsis prefer a day temperature of 80-85 degrees and 60-65 degrees at night. The daytime temperature may sometimes rise a bit higher without getting too high during the summer months, additional shading may be necessary. Phalaenopsis prefer roughly the same temperature as people 62-80 degrees. If their windowsill becomes too hot during the day, one or two layers of cheese cloth or a light linen curtain will provide adequate shade to reduce temperature. Watering: Phalaenopsis like to be kept on the moist side, as they do not possess the well developed water storage organs of other orchids. They should never be allowed to become completely dry. Neither should they be allowed to stand for any length of time with "wet feet". Water about once every 7-10 days depending on temperature and air circulation using only 1-2 cups of water, do not use so much water that it comes running out the bottom of the pot. Watering is best performed early in the day to allow the foliage to become dry by nightfall. Cool temperatures and excessive moisture can easily lead to fungal and rot problems if water is allowed to stand in the leaf axils. |
Cattleya Culture
Light: Cattleya plants need a good amount of light to grow and flower well. A good guide to whether or not a plant is getting the proper light is the color of the foliage, it should be light olive green rather then dark lush green. The bulbs should develop straight and upright without the need for staking. If the plants produce weak growths, with no sheath, it is a sign of insufficient light.
Temperature: The optimum temperature range for best growth and flowering is 60-80 degrees Fahrenheit. However, plants will stand down into the fifties and up as high as the hundreds with little or no damage if the humidity and watering are adjusted accordingly. A good rule to follow is raise the humidity with the temperature and lower the humidity and watering with lower temperatures. Watering and humidity: Cattleya plants have evolved water storage organs to withstand periodic drying in their native habitats. For this reason, it is recommended that plants in cultivation be allowed to go nearly dry between waterings. Mature plants generally need to be watered about once per week, smaller plants perhaps every 4-5 days during most of the year. In cooler temperatures plants may be left a little longer between waterings. (When in doubt wait a day to water) Always water thoroughly, allowing water to drain well through the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot. |
Oncidium Culture
Light: Strong light is important when growth is maturing. In the home, an east, shaded south, or west window. In the greenhouse 25% to 50% of full sun. Less light is needed during the winter months.
Temperature: Needs vary greatly. It is best to follow the plants natural requirements. Nights of 62-70 degrees and days of 65-95 degrees. Most oncidiums will do well in intermediate conditions that are usually found in most homes. Watering and humidity: During the plants active growth water when plant is just becoming dry, some types need slight drying while in their resting phase. Water lightly during their resting phase and keep humidity at 40% - 60% if possible. When re-potting it is a good idea to under pot oncidiums rather then over pot. Most oncidiums are free flowering and will flower on each mature growth. |
Dendrobium Culture
Light: Strong light is important when growth is maturing. In the home, an east, shaded south, or west window. In the greenhouse, 25% to 50% of full sun. Less light is needed during the winter months.
Temperature: Needs vary widely. It is best to follow the plants natural requirements. Nights of 45-65 degrees and days of 65-95 degrees. Most dendrobiums will do well under intermediate conditions that are usually found in most homes. Watering and humidity: During the plants active growth, water when plant is just becoming dry, some types need severe drying while in their resting phase. Water lightly during their resting phase and keep humidity at 40%-60% if possible. Note: Some dendrobiums refferred to as deciduous lose their leaves either prior to or just after blooming. Please do not be alarmed if this happens. It is quite normal and will produce new growths with leaves very shortly. A few deciduous dendrobiums are: Chrysandthum, Friedricksianum, Nobile, Wardianum, Anosmum, Crassinode, Falconeri, Fimbriatum, Findlayanum, Heterocarpum, Loddigesii, Moniliforme, Parishii, Primulinum, Transparents. |
Brassia Culture
Light: Strong light is important when growth is maturing. In the home, an east, shaded south, or west window. In the greenhouse 25% to 50% of full sun. Less light is needed during winter months.
Temperature: Needs vary widely. It is best to follow the plants natural requirements. Nights of 62-70 degrees and days of 65-95 degrees. Most brassia will do well in intermediate conditions that are usually found in most homes. Watering and humidity: During the plants active growth water when plant is just becoming dry, some types need slight drying while in their resting phase. Water lightly during the resting phase and keep humidity at 40%-60% If possible. When re-potting it is a good idea to under pot brassias rather then over pot. Most brassias are free flowering and will flower on each mature growth. However spring is their peak time. |
Where & When to cut the stem
The flowers develop on a long stem growing from the leaf axil. Phalaenopsis can be induced to flower by lowering the night temperatures to 58 degrees for a period of three to four weeks in early fall. They usually initiate the flower spikes in winter around December or January. When the primary spike has flowered out to the end, secondary spikes can be induced to branch by cutting the main spike at the proper location ( See illustration ). These secondary spikes will usually develop from dormant buds, or nodes, along the primary spike. This procedure is not recommended for young seedlings or weak plants. In this case cut the flower spike down to within an inch or two of the leaves at the base of the spike. This enables the plant to devote its energy to growing, resulting in a better flowering next time around.
Notice: The following phalaenopsis will not generally side branch therefore it is not advisable to cut the main spike as flowers may develop at the end and continue to bloom: Phalaenopsis Equestris, Yellow, Red, Multi-flora phalaenopsis. |
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